Sufis at Sundown

We finally made it to the Sufis! Everyone has been telling us that this is one of the more exciting and interesting things to see in all of Khartoum. It was enthralling to see such a different celebration of faith that still is Islam. Sufism is a mystical sect of Islam. Under this sect, the people (Sufis)believe that you can become closer to God through chanting/singing and dancing yourself into a trance-like state. Some of you may be more familiar with the Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul, Turkey. I remember having to arrive promptly at the gate, where we were ushered to our seats and reminded of the rules and regulations.

However, it must be noted, Sudani Sufis are a little more organic by nature. Every Friday as the sun sets, the Sufis march across the cemetery and congregate at the tomb of Sheikh Hamed al-Nil, chanting, banging drums and waving green banners. Rather than the typical white jalabias you see around here, there are bright green and red cloaks (and even some patch-work outfits for one lucky guy).

This ritual goes on, building in energy as the Sufis frenetically spin and chant, "La illaha ill allah" ("There's no God but Allah") for more than an hour. We, as observers, were pushed back as the circle grew bigger.

I found myself swaying to the beat and wanting desperately to join the circle. Our friend, Mirghani, had to keep reminding me to calm down, after all, this is not what women do. One woman, though, did "get the spirit". She started screaming, jumping around and throwing off of shawl. The men were quick to grab her and throw her out of the circle.

Regardless, this definitely seems like the ideal place for a character to express their true personalities. I think if I were Sudanese, this might be one of my favorite places to visit! Of course there's quite a mini-market on the pathway to the tomb...freshly fried donuts, tea, prayer beads! A perfect Friday activity!