After an hour's drive, we finally arrived at the compound and was astounded to see so many people, roughly 300, milling about. There are large mats everywhere."Really, Mirghani? These people are all family?"
"Yes, of course! Cousin, cousin, cousin. All from Nuba Mountains."
"Nuba Mountains...Oh! Land of the Strong!" (We've heard this before and know to mention it! Also there's a bit about it being where the earth was created too.)
Being guests of honor, we are led through a courtyard, through another two before we arrive in a stuffy, carpeted room. We sit upon tiger-striped chairs lined along the walls, separated from the others. This is the best seat in the house and we happily circle up with our colleagues/house-mates that we spend far too much time with anyway. (Never mind that we came to see the family, that's besides the point!)
Miscellaneous people, including the Sheik meander in to welcome us. Then the food arrives. Four huge trays packed full of food are set down on ground, and we happily circle up, anxious to see what our options are! Here you'll see some typical things: ashira--the previously mentioned glop we talked about. It's kind of like a meaty spaghetti sauce on top of sorghum paste. Also tons of meat, fuul (fava beans), lots of dips including tahini, dates and watermelon! I found out later from Rachel that there were intestines and stomach too. (Glad I didn't know that at the time!)
This is all communal eating AND drinking. There is one cup for all of the people at one tray. There are no utensils or napkins, only your hands. (Talk about messy!) At the end of the meal, though, some one comes around with a bowl of water (and soap) to wash up with!
The best part of the time I must admit was meeting the women, who are segregated from the men. We walked out to their courtyard and WHAM! It was like we were celebrities or politicians...we were rushed, hands forced upon us and our arms were grabbed from every direction! "Salaam! Salaam!"
Everyone was so sincere in wanting to say hello and talk to us. My face hurt from smiling so hard! Once we started taking pictures with them, they couldn't stop. Every two seconds a new mother or a pack of kids begging us to take a picture! They thought it was hilarious to see themselves in the camera! I think digital photography might not have made it to the village just yet!
It was a wonderful night, that far exceeded my expectations. (We're invited back to the BIG celebration next week that will be both friends and family!)

1 comment:
Recipes! Give us a recipe so we can celebrate at home. I'd like to try that ashira. Mmmmm ... meaty sauce!
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